The Modern Man's Shirt Guide

A good shirt does more for the way you look than almost anything else you own. It frames the face, defines the shoulders and sets the tone of an outfit before anyone notices anything else. Here is how to choose well.

The shoulder seam

Fit starts at the shoulder. The seam should sit exactly where your shoulder bone ends — not hanging over it, not creeping onto your neck. Everything else can be altered; the shoulder cannot.

The collar

A button-down collar is relaxed and versatile. A semi-spread collar is the default for tailoring and frames a tie knot cleanly. A camp collar lies open and flat — the right choice for linen and warm evenings. You should be able to slip one finger, no more, inside a buttoned collar.

The cloth

Oxford cloth is textured and hard-wearing — the everyday shirt. Poplin is smooth and crisp, made for tailoring. Linen breathes like nothing else in an Indian summer. Brushed wool-blend overshirts take you into winter.

“Own four shirts: a white oxford, a pale blue poplin, a linen camp collar and a checked overshirt. You will be dressed for almost anything.”

Sleeve and length

The cuff should meet the base of your thumb with arms relaxed, showing a centimetre below a jacket sleeve. If you wear shirts untucked, choose a straight hem that ends mid-zip; if you tuck, a curved hem with a longer tail stays put all day.